Exploring Harwich

Harwich: the name is synonymous with ships and sailors. The harbour here, created by a storm surge in the 1100s, is the only Haven Port between the Thames and the Humber. Famous seafarers Hawkins, Drake and Frobisher all sailed from Harwich during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I; in 1588 the English Fleet put into Harwich on their return from the defeat of the Spanish Armada; in 1600 a shipyard was built; and soon afterwards ‘packet boats’ began sailing from here to Holland. But it’s Harwich’s role in the story of America that’s fuelling the town’s re-emergence as a tourist hotspot – a story of one ship that links four nations, spans 400 years of history and connects millions of people.
The Mayflower and the story of its voyage across the Atlantic in 1620 are intrinsically linked with Harwich. The ship is believed to have been built here – it was originally designated as ‘of Harwich’ – and was commanded and part-owned by Captain Christopher Jones, who had lived in the town. Jones was twice wed in St Nicholas Church, Harwich; his first wife Sara Twitt lived in a house opposite his and which is now home to popular local hostelry, the Alma Inn.
Hints of Harwich’s nautical heritage can be seen throughout the ‘old town’, built on a grid pattern in the 13th century to make the most of its strategic position at the mouth of the Rivers Stour and Orwell. Many of the houses here have cellars that were interconnecting and had the dual purpose of facilitating smuggling and avoiding the press gangs. Other historical gems include the Electric Palace, built in 1911 and now the oldest unaltered purpose-built cinema in Britain, St Nicholas Church which was rebuilt 1821, and the atmospheric Redoubt Fort which dates back to the Napoleonic Wars.
Whether you’re arriving on land or water, an enjoyable way to discover the historic town is to follow its Maritime Heritage Trail. Don’t miss the High and Low Lights – the latter is now a Maritime Museum – the Lifeboat Museum, the Barge Murals that overlook the site where Thames Sailing Barges were once built, and the Treadwheel Crane – built in 1667 and based on a Roman design, it men walked in the interior of two large wheels to raise and lower goods and materials. Also visit the old Radar Tower at Beacon Hill Fort, which was the first radar installation of the Second World War.

Sailing clubs

Modern-day Harwich and its Harbour remain a centre of sailing activity. Dating from the early 1960s, Harwich Town Sailing Club is a vibrant club committed to promoting sailing as an all-round family activity in all its forms, from championship racing to pottering about in and around the harbour area. The club has helped many sailors become champions in their class, and continues to offer Youth training under its own RYA instructors. •www.htsc.co.uk
The HQ of the Harwich & Dovercourt Sailing Club resides on the bank of the River Stour – LBK6 is the last survivor of the Thames lighters requisitioned by the Admiralty for D-Day, and converted for use by the Royal Navy. LBK6 – the title means Landing Barge Kitchen – sailed for Normandy as part of Force ‘S’; her job was to provide hot meals and fresh bread to the 52 barges she supported. Other wartime postings followed, and after VE Day LBK6 was left by the Navy in Rotterdam to work as a soup kitchen for the starving Dutch population. Eventually returned to England, after various refits and repairs she was sold in 2007 to Harwich & Dovercourt Sailing Club, the oldest club on the River Stour. •www.hdsc.org.uk
Annual regattas at Harwich providing racing events for both yachts and working boats were first organised in 1828, and in 1843 a yacht club was formed to run them. Two years later the so-called Eastern Yacht Club secured Royal Patronage – securing the Dowager Queen Adelaide (King William IV’s widow) as patron – and was renamed the Royal Harwich Yacht Club. In the 19th century the Royal Harwich became one of the leading racing yacht clubs in the country, but in WWII it closed down. Post-war, people had little money to spend on recreation. But Austin Farrar, a boatyard operator, yacht and rig designer, acquired a yard at Woolverstone on the River Orwell and offered the RHYC a chance to re-form there, initally using wartime Nissen huts as a clubhouse. In 1969 a smart new clubhouse was opened on the site and, with various later additions including a marina with floating pontoons and a number of swinging moorings, it continues to provide facilities for members and visiting yachtsmen alike. Together with laying-up on-shore facilities, an active sailing and social programme and a variety of RYA training courses, the club offers something for every sailor, plus a superb food and drinks offering.

The harbour

The RNLI Harwich Lifeboat Station was built in 2002 and accommodates a B class inshire lifeboat, while an all-weather lifeboat lies afloat on a pontoon close by. Closed to visitors currently,  the Station remains operational through the Coronavirus crisis – its website will keep you in touch with the crew’s latest call-outs.

Harwich Haven Authority was set up by an Act of Parliament in 1863 to oversee marine operations in Harwich and Felixstowe. Its jurisdiction covers the Harbour (including the Port of Felixstowe, Harwich International Port and Harwich Navyard), the tidal River Stour (including the Port of Mistley); through traffic to Associated British Ports, Ipswich; and an area to sea extending to the Shipwash Bank.
HHA exists to ensure the safety of everyone using Harwich Harbour – VHF Channel 71, call sign Harwich VTS, is always busy and leisure sailors will know that monitoring this channel is the best way to check out commercial vessel movements.
The main deep-water navigational channels within Harwich Harbour are well marked by buoys and lights. Yachts are advised to keep clear of the channels and use the recommended yacht tracks; if the main channels have to be crossed, do so as nearly as practicable at right angles. Avoid crossing the bows of oncoming commercial traffic – large container ships, in particular, have restricted visibility ahead when carrying a deck cargo of containers. And adhere to both the ColRegs and best practice advice given by the Royal Yacht Association.